Many gardeners chose to start their own plants rather than buy seedlings from nurseries.  This is not a difficult task if you follow a few simple rules.  First, sanitation is a major consideration as many seedlings are susceptible to damping off diseases if not started in clean soil and pots.   I solve this problem by washing all pots (use 2-3 inch pots) and trays and sanitizing them in a 10% Clorox dip.  This removes any opportunity for the diseases that cause damping off to be carried over to the new plants.  

Purchase seed starter mix (recommended for starting seeds) from the local garden center, to assure that pathogens are not present in the soil that I will be starting my seeds in.  One can use vermiculite, sand, or a mix of your choice, but it should be sterilized before planting to remove any pathogens.  I always wet down the starter mix before I fill pots since it’s much easier to do it this way.   

Following the directions on the seed packets, cover all but very small seeds with a thin layer of potting mix.  Place the pot in a tray, or some kind of container to collect and hold a little water, and then cover the pot with a sheet of plastic.  Secure the plastic with a rubber band.  I make these covers from the plastic sleeve of my newspaper.  This creates a greenhouse environment that will prevent the emerging seedlings from drying out.  For larger seeds that produce larger plants, one can use a sandwich bag instead of a piece of plastic bag.  The pots can be lifted from time to time to check their moisture content and, if more water is needed, it can be added to the tray beneath the pot.  

Supplemental light, use a 60-watt light bulb, is required for germination of most seeds.   The pots can also be placed on a sunny window sill if you have room.  I move the emerging plants to a grow-light stand in my garage soon after their emergence, as they will become spindly under low light condition.   

After the seedlings have emerged, I remove the plastic cover from the pot, remembering to keep the soil in the pot moist.  Seedlings can be transplanted from this pot to trays or larger pots as soon as they are large enough to handle.  These pots and trays need not be sterilized, but it doesn’t hurt to select clean ones.  The soil does not need to be sterile at this stage, either.  I make mine by mixing equal parts of screened compost and Promix, but any light potting soil will work.  Don’t use bagged topsoil since it is too heavy and will kill many seedlings.   

Most plants can now be placed outside in a location where they are protected from strong sunlight as long as the day temperature is above 45 degrees.  If there is danger of frost at night, I take the plants in or cover them in a cold frame on my patio.  Fertilizing the seedlings with a diluted Miracle Gro solution at least once a week will help them to develop.   

As soon as danger of frost is past, the plants can be transplanted to your garden. Because of our long growing season, one need not start plants early.  I start my tomatoes in late February or early March because I want them to be ready for our plant sale in April, but they could be started in early April with no worries about cold weather.  Many perennials can be started later, since most will not flower their first year.  The only problem I have with starting seeds late is keeping the seedlings watered as the days get warmer.   

Marigolds, salvia, and tomatoes are among the easiest plants to start from seed, as long as one has the time to spend caring for the young plants.  Many seeds can be started in your garden and transplanted with no problems    I have many hardy annuals that self-seed in my garden.  I move these young plants around as time permits during the growing season.  If you would like to start something that’s not available, why don’t you try to germinate your own seeds?   I usually start 40 to 50 types of plants from seed each year using this method Germinating your own seeds is lots of fun and not really that difficult.